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    In 1852 Emperor Napoléon III (Emperor from 1852 
    to 1870) put into motion his long term plan to renovate Paris. He appointed 
    Georges-Eugène Haussmann (1809-1891) prefect of the département of the Seine 
    and commissioned him to oversee the renovation. He transformed the dark 
    medieval Paris into a true City of Lights, changing over half of the city's 
    buildings in the process. Narrow streets became boulevards; bridges were 
    built; both the water supply and  the sewer systems greatly improved. 
    The process consumed the entire reign of Napoléon III. 
    The Café de la Régence where Morphy gave his 
    famous blindfold exhibition in 1858 was not the same Régence of Philidor and 
    Bourdonnais. It too had been renovated and relocated.  | 
   
  
    
    
    
     
    In 1852 the Café de la Régence lost its original home on Place du Palais-Royal, 
    where it opened in 1681 as one of the first coffee houses in Paris. It found 
    temporary quarters on Rue de Richelieu for two years, then moved permanently 
    to the Rue Saint-Honoré, where it remains to this day, though under a 
    different name. The removal of the Café from its time honored location 
    symbolized its removal from the history of chess. When the immortal American 
    master Morphy gave a fantastic exhibition in the Café's new home in the late 
    1850's, playing eight blindfold games simultaneously, it was the visit of 
    Morpheus, and the Café de la Régence has slept peacefully ever since. 
     -Paul Metzner, Crescendo of the Virtuoso,  p.53 
      
     
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    La France Pittoresque published an 
    article in 1882 entitled Les cafés artistiques et littéraires de Paris. 
    In this article is mentioned not only the renovation, but a number of the 
    frequenters of the Café.  
     from a cleaned-up machine translation: 
    
      Located formerly at the corner of the 
      street Saint-Honoré and the place of the Palais Royal, this establishment 
      had famous customers and chess players of a remarkable strength. These 
      included Deschapelles, Bourdonnais, Philidor, Saint-Amant,  General 
      Bonaparte (this last was not a particularly great chess player). Alfred de 
      Musset was, until incapacitated by his disease [Musset's Disease - an 
      ailment of the heart brought on by heavy drinking], one of faithful of la 
      Régence. He was a strong player. Knowing the habits of this famous author 
      of the tales of Spain and Italy [more famous as a French poet], people 
      from  foreign lands, as well as from the provinces, ones came to the 
      Cafés just to watch him play. 
      ... 
      On the long terrace in edge on the place 
      of the Théâtre Français , one sees only foreigners, English, Americans. 
      Scandinavians, Germans. The Norwegians, the Swedes, the Danes are there as 
      on their own premises. The newspapers are received: from Stockholm, 
      Copenhagen and Christiana, and the compatriots of Mrs. Nilsson devote 
      themselves to literary or political discussions in this language that very 
      little of French include/understand. 
       
      Having crossed  so noisy a terrace, one can enter a small room where 
      the chess players sit at their tables. There, no sharp discussions, not 
      even a movement. One only hears the small sharp snap of a chess piece as 
      someone makes a manœuvrer. Formerly one did not smoke in this room; but 
      the love of the tobacco grew popular even with the chess amateurs; the 
      cigarettes, cigars and even pipes form clouds of smoke there at times. The 
      chess players are so absorbed, that very often forget to eat that which 
      they paid for; sometimes forget to drink the grog that they ordered or, as 
      they never look at anything other than the battle field, – i.e. the board 
      where they deploy their skill – if they drink, they sometimes accidentally 
      drink their opponent's order, swallowing a coffee or beer mouthful to the 
      cream, mixing the wormwood with the American grog. These blunders amuse 
      the gallery who laugh at the grimaces of the inattentive players. On the 
      walls of the small room about which we speak hang medallions bearing the 
      names of: Bourdonnais, Philidor, Deschapelles, PH Lopez [?], Greco, P. 
      Stamma, Macdonald, G Lolli, G Selenus; then the date of the foundation of 
      the Café , 1718, and that of its restoration, 1855. 
      With the right end of the terrace is the 
      entry to a much larger room where the most serious games are played. By 
      around six  o'clock, all the tables are occupied. On one of them the 
      name of Bonaparte is engraved ; it was brought from place of the Palais 
      Royal to the new establishment. The future emperor himself had this marble 
      chess-board made. 
       
      M . Grévy, the president of the Republic, was a long time one of the 
      enthusiasts of Régence.  He either played or followed the games. One 
      often sees there Mr. Paul Bethmont or Mr. Audren de Kerdrel, senator. A 
      deputy, Mr. Fernand Gatineau, remain on the terrace as chess doesn't seem 
      to really interest him. 
       
      Those players of which one follows the games with the most attention are: 
      Mr. de Rosenthal, a Pole; Mr. Festhamel who, in the Monde Illustré, 
      the National Opinion, and in the Century,  poses the 
      most difficult chess problems; M. le vicomte de Bornier; according to the 
      hearsay of the experts, the author of  la Fille de Roland has 
      in just a short time become of a remarkably strong; Mr. Chaseray, 
      appraiser, who sits endlessly in front of a chess-board at  l'Hôtel 
      des Ventes; the sculptor Lequesne ; Mr. Baucher, the son of an equestrian 
      professor; Mr. Charles Jolliet, whose voice fills up the room; Mr. Auguste 
      Jolliet, from France, Mr. Prudhon of the same theatre; Mr. Séguin; Mr. 
      Charles Royer, a well-read man who wrote the very remarkable forewords for 
      several volumes of Lemerre. Mr. Royer is the nephew of Mr. 
      Garnier-Pagès, whom one saw sometimes at Régence with his long white hair 
      falling down on his immense detachable collar; Mr. Maubant, of the 
      Comédie-Française ; Mr. de la Noue, son-in-law of the former minister for 
      the Empire, Mr. Billaut; a retired officer and Mr. Coulon, who pushes his 
      pieces  
      with military sang-froid. 
  
     
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    Harper's New Monthly Magazine  
    Vol. LXXVIII,  APRIL 1889,  No. CCCCLXVII 
    
    
       
      Leaving the noisy brasseries of the Latin Quarter, we will re-cross the 
      Seine, and direct our steps toward Montmartre, the Bohemia of modern 
      Paris. On our way, however, we will pay a visit to the Café de la Régence, 
      on the Place du Theatre Francais, the great rendezvous of the French 
      chess-players. The present café is not the one where Bonaparte played, or 
      even Alfred de Musset. The historic Café de la Régence was pulled down 
      when the Place du Palais Royal was transformed, and the name and the 
      habitués of the old café were transferred across the street to the present 
      establishment, together with the table on which Napoleon used to play 
      chess before he was Napoleon, or even First Consul. This café, thanks to 
      its proximity, is naturally the resort of the actors of the Comedie 
      Francaise; it has also its champion domino-player and its champion 
      billiard-players; but its chief glory is chess, in which game the Régence 
      has boasted a long line of champions, beginning a hundred and fifty years 
      ago with Philidor, and continuing through Mouret, Deschapelles, 
      Labourdonnaise, Saint Amant, Kiezeritsky, Neumann, Harrwitz, and 
      Rosenthal, who has now abandoned the Régence, and left the chieftain-ship 
      to Arnous  
      de Rivière.  
     
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    Finally, a paraphrased article from
    
    http://www.corsicoscacchi.com/regence.htm
      In the early 1700's chess players met at 
      the Café Procope in Rue des Fossés at the front of  the old center of 
      the Comédie Français, owned by the Sicilian nobleman, Francois Procope. 
      The Café Procope was a gathering place for chess players, men of letters, 
      adventurers and spies of the police. Cafés were true cultural centers 
      where, beyond playing and drinking, discussion about art, literature, 
      philosophy and politics abounded. When the Café de the Régence, opened in 
      1718 in t the Palais Royal, it became the center of the cultural life of 
      France. Additionally, the chess players moved there en mass. 
      The Café opened at the eight in the 
      morning and its first customers were the habitual players who crowded 
      looking to play billiards, checkers, dominoes and, naturally, chess. By 
      noon the premises was a dense cloud of smoke from mixed tobacco and 
      smelled of  alcohol, with the waiters needing to force a passageway 
      through the thick crowd to the small tables where, in the course of the 
      years, alternated such personages like Voltaire, Rousseau, Diderot, 
      Robespierre and Napoléon. 
      With to the Café was born also a new 
      personage: the professional player -  like Legal, he could be 
      employed by the owner of the premises in order to play with anyone looking 
      for a game, or he could be a customer himself,  playing for money. 
      Such were the Italian Verdoni and Philidor, who divided his life between 
      the twin professions of musician and chess-player. In the successive 
      century, Deschapelles and the Bourdonnais were likewise. To attract the 
      weaker players, professionals usually played at odds, giving Pawn & the 
      move or two - even a Knight or a Rook. In the Café and the chess clubs 
      this custom remained in vogue even into the first decades of the 1900's. 
       
      Into the middle 1800's. Paris was the pace for chess and the Café de the 
      Régence hosted some of the more important matches of the age such as the 
      return match between Staunton and Saint-Amant . It was just this 
      challenge, which ended in an English victory, that marked the beginning of 
      the decline of French dominance. By royal decision,  the Café de the 
      Régence moved to la Place du Théâtre Français and all hope of it's former 
      glory faded. In 1858  Morphy visited the Café and defeated with ease 
      all the strongest local players. The golden age of French chess was gone. 
      Chess now spoke English and, before long, will have begun to speak German. 
  
     
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